We're an insulation contractor based in Seaside, and we insulate and air seal attics, walls and crawl spaces in Pacific Grove houses. The leaks get closed before any new insulation goes in, so your house actually holds the heat.
(831) 204-4546
Pacific Grove is a short drive from our base in Seaside, and a lot of the houses we go into here are older, with tight attics, a thin layer of old insulation and crawl spaces under raised floors. The call usually starts with a drafty bedroom, cold floors or a power bill that keeps climbing, and the cause is usually up in the attic or down under the floor.
We hear from homeowners here and from landlords and property managers with rentals, and on every one of them I start by looking at what's actually there. We do the same work next door in Monterey, so if you own places in both cities, one call covers them.
We reply within one business day to set a time, and there's no obligation. I come out to your Pacific Grove house myself, look over the attic, walls or crawl space, and write the estimate so you know what we'd do and why.
(831) 204-4546In the attic we seal the gaps around lights, pipes and the hatch, then add blown-in insulation, which is loose fill blown through a hose, or spray foam where the ductwork runs up there. Under raised floors we insulate the crawl space and lay a vapor barrier, and in older walls we can usually add insulation without opening them up. When what's up there is soaked or full of droppings, insulation removal comes first, because new material on top only hides the problem.
Pacific Grove has its own city government, the City of Pacific Grove, so before we start I check with the building office for your address to see whether your job needs a permit. Where one's needed, we take care of the paperwork and set up the inspections, and that can move the start date, so I'll tell you as soon as I know. The schedule also turns on whether old insulation has to come out first and whether something like a roof leak or old wiring needs fixing before we cover it up.
The price moves with the size of the attic or crawl space and how easy it is to get into, how many inches are already up there, whether the old material comes out, how many gaps need sealing, and whether you go with foam or loose fill. Older houses here often have a small hatch tucked in a closet, so getting hoses and material in is part of the plan, and your own figure comes from the estimate once I've seen it. We do this same work as far out as Prunedale, and across Monterey County, into Santa Cruz County and over to Gilroy, so if you're not sure we come your way, just ask.
I spent years doing upkeep for a property management company, so I get up into the attic or under the floor before I write a number. I check how many inches are there, look for soaked spots, droppings and buried vents, and note every gap.
We do the air sealing first, closing the gaps around can lights, pipes and the hatch, because insulation sitting over a draft can't do its job. Then our installers keep the eave vents clear so the attic can breathe, and fill the edges as deep as the middle.
We're licensed and fully insured, and the work is backed by our satisfaction guarantee. When our installers finish, I walk through it with you and show you what we did and why. If you'd like us to look at your house, call (831) 204-4546.
It depends on your attic, so I don't give a number until I've been up there. Sealing the gaps and topping up loose fill usually costs less than spray foam, and having old material taken out first adds to the job. Once I've looked, the estimate gives you the figure for your house.
For most attics, sealing the gaps and topping up blown-in insulation is the better buy. Foam costs more but seals air while it insulates, so it earns its price when your ductwork runs through the attic. Closed-cell foam, a dense foam that also blocks moisture, is the heavier option, and I'll tell you if your house calls for it.
That depends on the size of the space and whether old insulation has to come out first, and I'll lay out the plan for your house at the estimate. With blown-in insulation you can usually stay home. Spray foam comes with a re-entry time, the wait before people and pets can come back inside, and we tell you how long it is before we start.
Usually it's air leaking through gaps that were never sealed, more than thin insulation. Air slips past can lights, pipes and the attic hatch, and in a lot of attics the insulation is deep in the middle and thin at the edges, which is backward. We seal those gaps first and then bring the edges up to match.
Only if the old material is soaked or full of droppings, because new insulation laid on top keeps the problem in place. If it's dry and clean, we usually leave it and add to it after sealing the gaps. I'll show you what I find so you can see the reason either way.
